What to do when you have hooded eyes?
Makeup for hooded eyes can be difficult and the hardest part to deal with is definitely the hidden mobile lid. What we're aiming for is "light and shade", to make the eyelid stand out and make the overhanging lid appear recessed.
Makeup look created by Daniel Sandler view the video here
Those of you with hooded eyelids know that the natural crease in the eyelid is not easily seen so to add a dimension to the eye a well defined lash line and a strong brow will help the eye area look more open along with the correct shades and texture of eye shadows and a great mascara. The main thing to think about is the space between the eyebrows and eyelashes as three different areas, the brow bone (a) and eyelid (c) should be light and the socket line (b) should be shaded - "light and shade"!
Where to apply the correct eye shadow shades
Step by step guide
- Apply concealer over the whole lid, a creamy concealer helps nourish dry skin. The concealer will give you more coverage to help hide dark circles, redness and skin tone discolouration. It will also help to act as a grip to keep your eye makeup in place longer. Set with Invisible Veil Blotting powder which will help with any excess oil in the skin. If you prefer not to use a concealer make sure you use a primer as hooded eyelids are the worst for eye makeup creasing/smudging. If you go down the primer route it is best applied with a brush and allowed to dry thoroughly.
- The "luminance contrast" between the eyes and the surrounding skin is known as "facial contrast" this includes the eyebrows because they are a main source of contrast on the face. The fuller and darker your eyebrows look can help with making your face appear younger, as facial hair becomes grey and thinner with age. Shape your brows first which will frame the face helping the eye area to look more open, start by brushing your brows up and into a natural shape using a Brow Grooming brush, taking a brow pencil or matte shadow (using a Brow Filler brush) place fill in any thin parts of the brow using light feathery strokes (see blog The perfect brows for your face shape for the correct shape for your face), and then re-brush your brows and to lock in the pencil or shadow use Invisible Veil Blotting powder this will also soften the makeup shade so the brows don’t look too severe but more natural.
Guide lines to help shape your brows - end points a, b, and c are all inline with the edge of your nose (nostril)
- Using a shade such as a mid-tone brown apply the eye shadow just above where the crease line and not in to the natural fold of your eyelid. Using a matte shadow and a Blending/Socket brush apply this shade to the eye socket and above taking care not to go on the eyelid itself, keep this area free of colour. Start from the base of the upper lash line and over the entire hooded area to help the lid appear to recede. Apply the same shade under the lower lash-line. Go over the mobile part of the eye lid with a paler shade matte shadow which will really make your eyes pop. (See image above). Matte textured shades are best if you’re looking to minimize your upper brow bone. Shimmery shades will reflect light and make things look bigger than they are, so if you want to use them keep the shimmer on the part of your lid that actually moves and away from the brow bone. Stick to using bigger, softer brushes to apply our eye makeup this will help to achieve a subtler, more blended finish.
- Curl your lashes as this will open up the eye and then apply mascara getting as much product as possible along the root of the lashes as it will give the eyes shape without using an eyeliner. Give your lashes 2-3 coats of mascara as long lashes open up hooded eyes in an instant
- Finish with cheeks and lips to complete the whole look.